Down to our last 3 days, we
had a lot of territory to cover. Our
first stop was at the town of Amalfi, which is at the southern end of the 35
mile Amalfi coast (south of
Naples on Italy’s western coast). A truly
breathtaking area, with lemon groves, buildings and houses clinging to the
sides of rugged cliffs, just waiting for the next earthquake.
It’s hard to believe that
this sleepy little town, with its lovely piazzas, a popular community beach at
the marina’s edge, and a magnificent 12th century cathedral was once
an influential seaport with a population of over 70,000. After a leisurely walk around town, we hired
a very chatty taxi driver to take us to the tiny village of Positano, 11 miles
away, along a very windy road built high into the cliffs, and giving us all
near heart attacks as the driver negotiated the many narrow hairpin turns. Positano is the most photographed town along
the Amalfi coast, with lovely pastel-colored villas rising above a really cool
black sand beach. We liked the town so
much we had a wonderful waterfront lunch and then went back for dinner (where
we probably had the best home-made pasta dishes in our entire trip!)
The next morning, the Andrea
Cay negotiated dramatic rock karsts to get to the island of Capri. During the Roman times, Capri served as the
summer getaway for the Roman elite. Today, it is the haunt of the rich and
famous. We hiked from one side of the island to the other over the crest of the
hill, with beautiful bouganinvillea-adorned villas. After our “exhausting” hike over the island (…
not really), we had earned ourselves another wine and pizza lunch. The tourist season is pretty much at its end,
but Carol and Nancy did manage to get a little more shopping in. Capri, as well as the entire Amalfi coast, is
famous for its lemon groves, and most importantly, its production of limoncello…
so of course we had to buy a couple bottles!
After a few hours cruising
north late afternoon, we anchored off the Sorrento, a town sitting high above
striking limestone cliffs that plunge into the sea. Known as Surrentum to the Greeks and later
the Romans, it has a long history of trade, culture and wars. Some of the oldest ruins originate from
Italian tribes dating back to 900 BC. It
is also the site of the mythological “sirens” that tempted sailors to certain
doom with their mesmerizing voices and singing.
One of our days in Sorrento,
we rented a car and drove to Pompeii, one of Europe’s most amazing archaeological
sites. A city of 20,000 people in the 1st
century, a huge explosion of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD buried the city under a
layer of hot pumice and burying thousands.
Subsequent eruptions over the next few centuries, buried the town even
deeper and the 60 acres of the ancient city of Pompeii were not discovered
until the 18th century. We
had a fascinating tour by a local guide and were amazed at the preservation of
these 2000 year old ruins.
The only disappointment of
the day was our attempt to hike to the top of Mt. Vesuvius. After Peter Andretti skillfully negotiated
the narrow and harrowing road to the national park near the top, we were foiled
in our plan to hike the final half hour to the top of the crater. Our tour guide (and book) told us you had to
start the hike by 3:30, but when we arrived at 3:15, they had just closed (and
there was no talking them into letting us go!)
Our last official day of the
fun filled vacation was spent in Sorrento. After a short walking tour of town
and lunch, of course… there was last-minute shopping for all! Carol and Nancy bravely tackled the many gift
shops, while John and Peter found a local wine store and overly provisioned the
Andrea Cay for its winter in the Caribbean.
Tuesday morning, our regular
crew, Roy and Jane, flew in to join Joc and Shaz on the Atlantic crossing to
the Caribbean. The four of us headed to
Rome where we spent the night and all flew out the next morning.
And so ends a fantastic four
month adventure. And hopefully, it’s
just the beginning of more great explorations!
Check in periodically for
progress reports on the Atlantic crossing if you’re interested…
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Stromboli -- an active volcanic island off Sicily |
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John preparing his world-famous waffles |
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The town of Amalfi |
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Cathedral of St. Andrea (ed. note: I can't say my Andrea is always a saint...) |
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Crypt of the cathedral |
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Main chapel of the cathedral |
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View of Amalfi from the scary coastal highway |
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Yes... we drove across this road |
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The most photographed village of Positano (along with the most photographed couple...) |
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Andrea Cay anchored off Positano |
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The black beach of Positano |
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Church of Santa Maria Assunta (interior of church in previous photo) |
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Capri |
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Capri |
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The big hike across the island of Capri (it was a pretty steep climb...) |
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The marina at Capri |
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Toasting and toasting and toasting some more with Limoncello |
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One of the well-preserved gates of ancient Pompeii |
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Pompeii ruins |
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Bodies unearthed in Pompeii (plaster was pumped into the body cavities to preserve them -- you can see the bones and skulls which is amazing) |
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Amphitheater at Pompeii (perfectly preserved from 2000 years ago) |
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Mt. Vesuvius |
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Sunday mass in the main cathedral of "modern" Pompeii |
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This was one of the most beautiful churches we visited (Pompeii) |
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Sorrento |
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Sorrento |
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Main piazza of Sorrento |
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Beautiful hotels sit at the top of the limestone cliffs of Sorrento |
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The "ladies" church (never found any info on this, but that's what it was called!) |
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The last supper |
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