Halifax

We arrived in Halifax to a large crowd of cheering Halifax residents and tourists lined along the city’s beautiful harbor promenade. After a brief rush of excitement we realized that they were not there cheering for us but were instead there to see the naval and tall ships depart the city.  The war of 1812 is a celebrated event in these parts and being the bicentennial anniversary larger than usual celebrations had been prepared.

Downtown Halifax

John, Mike, Howard and Ed arriving in Halifax.

However, before we could enjoy the passing parade we had to go through Canadian customs and immigrations. This proved to be a painless process although there were some gasps of horror from certain crew members upon hearing that some wine would be sealed away and each person limited to one and a half liters of alcohol a day.  “Inhumane treatment” some cried “how do they expect us to survive in those conditions?”  But as it turned out there was plenty to go around although Carol took it harder than most and made daily window-shopping trips to the wine store to reassure herself.

Tall ship crew members prepare for departure. Not for those suffering Acrophobia.

The Pride of Baltimore fires her canons. 

We had two nights in Halifax and spent the time exploring the city and some of the surrounding historical sites including an impressive fort (Fort George) that overlooks the city.  John and Peter spent and afternoon getting their hair cut by a Vietnamese ‘typhoon to be’ barber named Phat.  Nobody was sure just why it took so long for their haircuts considering the cover they both have up there but by all accounts it was an adventure in its own right.

The canon at Fort George is fired at exactly noon 364 days a year.

Sadly we had to say goodbye to Nancy and Harold who were both heading home from Halifax. Nancy will rejoin us once we arrive in the Med. There were concerns about them taking the good luck we have had with them but then discovered that Harold left his wine stash behind and so luck was soon forgotten about.

We left Halifax under rainy sky’s and thick cloud of soot coming from our stacks.  With the boat rapidly going from blue and white to black and white we headed north, bound for Whitehead Harbor about twelve hours north of Halifax.

Leg Two: Newport to Halifax

With the first week of cruising safely under our belts we departed Newport and continued past Martha’s Vineyard north towards Halifax our next destination. If we thought that the conditions from the first leg of the voyage had been good we were in for a pleasant surprise on this second leg as the weather and sea conditions were simply unbeatable. Hopefully the weather gods will continue to look favorably upon us.

The start of another good day at sea.

John and Peter at the helm.

We spent some time in the first evening cleaning the lobsters we had picked up in Newport and then enjoyed a superb lobster feast.

Harold, Ed, John and Peter get to grips with preparing lobsters

There was much excitement about the lobsters.

The final product.

In addition to the good weather the further north we progressed the more sea and bird life we encountered, including, humpback and pilot whales, common dolphins an endless array of sea birds and a massive Sunfish which has to rank as one of the more bizarre ocean creatures. It is the biggest boney fish in the ocean and can weigh up to as much as 2200lbs.

One of the many whales we saw. 

Another beautiful sunset in perfect conditions

After two days of easy cruising we entered into Canadian waters and the Halifax harbor in Nova Scotia.

Newport

After four good days at sea we made an early morning arrival in Newport, Rhode Island easing into the small harbor packed with boats of every imaginable shape and size. Being the early birds we are we had arrived before our designated slip was available and ended up anchoring just outside the harbor while tucking into some of John’s world famous waffles and bloody mary’s. Soon we were headed to our slip and not even a small engine issue that was completely unrelated to the breakfast refreshments could stop us as John expertly fitted the boat into the tightest of berths.

A tight fit for the Andrea Cay

Sunrise over the Newport harbor.

A 180 degree view of Newport from the top of the Andrea Cay

Newport was an interesting mix of a beautiful small costal town with a rich history both literally and figuratively. After a lunch of steamers and wine a few of the crew headed out to walk the town and visit the original Vanderbilt mansion, The Breakers.  There are several huge mansions in Newport that have been purchased and maintained by the Newport Preservation Society and are open to the public to tour.  The Breakers being possibly the most impressive of the lot. Built in two years with extravagant design and finishing the house was incredible and had a full time staff of nearly 30 servants.  If you have been a fan of the Downtown Abby series it made you feel as if you were a part of the show.

The Breakers entrance.

A very simple and understated dining room.

The following morning a number of the crew headed out for a run to try and get in some  much need calorie burning.  We get our exercise vicariously through the knowledge that Peter and Carol are exercising and stretching vigorously with a German like commitment and efficiency on a daily basis. We have all wondered how Peter does not get dizzy given the amount of laps he walks around the boat.  The running on the paths of the Newport cliff walk provided some of the most scenic running a runner could hope for.

Harold, checking out the city attractions by bicycle. 

Ed the flower child.

Nancy, Peter, Carol, Harold and Howard exploring the cliff walk

Before we left we provisioned the boat with a dinner of pre cooked lobsters with Lori eyeing out one particular monster, or was he eyeing out her. More about lobster feasts and our onward journey to Halifax in the next installment. 

Lori with a whopper of a lobster. 

Leg One: The journey begins

After years of talk and much preparation including a frantic final few days of purchasing food and booze, 13 000 gallons of diesel and some more booze to name but a few essentials, we were underway, bound ultimately for the Mediterranean but for now, who knows, first stop yet to be determined. 


With a large high pressure system over much of the northern Atlantic providing a favorable weather outlook for the first week of cruising we decided to head north for 24 hours before making a final decision on our first port of call. But first as is custom on a long voyage the somewhat superstitious "there is no such thing as a coincidence" Captain Mike ordered a toast to Neptune.  John did the honors and we set off hoping one glass of champagne would be enough to keep the big guy happy. 

Carol and Nancy prepare an offering to Neptune and breakfast for the rest of the crew

John makes the offering. "Its not easy throwing good stuff out" John Erickson 2012

Howard, Ed, John, nancy, Mike, Lori, Peter, Carol

The fishing rods were soon put out and it was not long before Ed had a big Mahi Mahi bull on the end of the line. Sadly for us it was not to be and after bringing it in close to the boat the line snapped before it could be landed.  

So close yet so far, the one that got away.

The next few days saw exceptional fishing effort with little result to speak of.  After a long unsuccessful day spent on the aft deck fishing (including three lost fish) Peter was receiving a fair amount of abuse (as is the way with this crew) and along with the rest of the fishing crew starting to feel waves of self doubt about their fishing ability. On our final day of fishing before heading into Newport, Rhode Island our now chosen first port of call Peter redeemed himself with a big Yellowfin Tuna. 

Peter and Capt. Mike with Peter's tuna.

Chef Lori gets to preparing a few small tuna steaks

After all the hard work of preparing the fresh tuna for dinner the pressure was on John to deliver some rare tuna steaks from the grill, something which does not come naturally for Mr. "Who ordered well done?" Fortunately a highly opinionated grilling quality control committee was established and dinner dinner was saved. 

John turns to drink after a taxing session at the grill, or is that just lunch?

 Along the way we were visited by a grey whale and some playful dolphins.

Dolphins leading us onwards. 

The offering to Neptune seemed to do the trick as the good weather continued all the way through to Newport bringing to an end to the fist leg of the voyage. 

The end of another good day at sea.